Menus plaisirs - Les Troisgros
Frederick Wiseman, France, USA, 2023o
Troisgros, Le Central and La Colline, located in three neighboring locations in central France. Troisgros, a restaurant founded 93 years ago, has had three Michelin stars for 55 years and in 2020 was awarded a Michelin green star for exemplary sustainable practices. Much of the film takes place at Troisgros. The present chef, César Troisgros, is the fourth generation of the family to be in charge at Troisgros. The film shows the day-to-day operations involving the purchase, preparation and service at this restaurant.
The American documentary filmmaker Frederick Wiseman became famous for his films that deal with the complex inner workings of institutions such as hospitals, libraries and museums, relying exclusively on precise observation and clever editing. Wiseman completely dispenses with off-screen commentary, interviews and music, as he believes that a mature audience does not need them. This approach also applies to the 94-year-old's 44th and possibly last film. Menus Plaisirs delves into the French family business Troisgros and its 3-star restaurant near Lyon. The patron gradually hands over the reins to his son, a second son runs another gourmet restaurant nearby and his daughter and mother manage the associated hotel. A few passages in the four-hour film seem repetitive, such as occasional conversations with regular guests. However, the occasional lengths are more than made up for by the fascinating insights into the well-established division of labor of a highly professional business: the briefing of the waitresses, expert conversations en famille and, of course, the work in the large kitchen, which is remarkably calm, disciplined and concentrated. One of the highlights is a scene with the patron eating a few kidneys: every bite is accompanied by thoughts on how the recipe could be refined - so devotedly, as if there were nothing more important in the world at the moment.
Kathrin Halter